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Hiking Celaque National Park and Cloud Forest

By Matt Lepkowski and Jennifer Voigt

Quick Facts

Destination: Gracias, Honduras
Activities
: Hiking in a national park and cloud forest in rural Honduras
When: June 16-18, 1999
Cost: $24 USD for food, lodging, admission to national park, bus from Copan, and bus to San Pedro Sula ($1 USD = L.14)
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Santa Rosa de Copan

Even the map reflects Catholicism’s influence in Honduras. Though the country has a high number of indigenous place names, places here also speak to its European settlers’ religious ambitions. Consequently, Honduras has two towns called Gracias. Gracias a Dios lies on the Mosquito Coast near the border with Nicaragua, and the mountain town of Gracias lies in the state/region of Lempira. Despite the faith its founders presumably put in God, even the churches in the latter Gracias are in partial rubble. If you want to see the real Honduras, this is a good place to start.

Very few tourists stay here, so its possible to see life as it actually progresses for Hondurans. Gracias is a small town, and exceedingly rural. It is, in a sense, a town neglected by time. When I visited, the economy was depressed, the streets had no signs, and the town lacked any place to get cash advances on credit cards. However, I was told by one bank employee that credit card processing should be in place by July 1999.

Transportation to Gracias, Honduras from Copan, Honduras (and Return to San Pedro Sula, Honduras)

Wake up early to catch the 7 am direct bus to La Entrada, it leaves from the bridge by Hotel Paty. The cost is L.25 (1.80 USD) and takes a little over an hour. From the bus stop at La Entrada, walk about 100 meters until the road comes to a "Y" intersection. Turn right, walk about 70 meters and look for a group of people waiting for a bus in front of the gas station.

Celaque Cloud Forest

Celaque Cloud Forest

From this location, catch a bus to Santa Rosa de Copan. There are no direct buses, only the infamous chicken buses. If you’re lucky you will be able to find a seat on these over-packed buses, and yes, there are sometimes chickens aboard. At least the fares reflect the rustic conditions: L.10 (.70 USD) for the hour plus ride to Santa Rosa de Copan.

At Santa Rosa de Copan you catch the final bus link to Gracias. Constant wind and mountainous terrain accompany you on the hour and a half ride to Gracias. The fare is L.13 (1 USD). The buses in rural Honduras run often but make many stops along the way. I did not have to wait more than 10 minutes for a bus at both La Entrada and Santa Rosa de Copan.

For the return trip, you can get a direct bus from Santa Rosa de Copan to San Pedro Sula. They depart at 8 am, 9:30 am, and 2 pm. The ride will take two and a quarter-hours and costs L.40 (2.90 USD). First, you need to get to Santa Rosa. The earliest bus leaves Gracias at 5:30 am, although when I was there it didn’t leave until 5:45am. It is the same price and duration as the trip there, L.13 (1 USD) and 1.5 hours. You can take the multi-chicken-bus option with an additional transfer at La Entrada, but it’s not much cheaper, much less comfortable, and takes hours longer.

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